North America: Part One

Costa Rica, El Salvador, Guatemala, and Mexico!

Quepos, Costa Rica

We had a sea day after we exited the Panama Canal before we arrived in Costa Rica.  Our first stop is Quepos which is an anchorage/tender port.  Our wonderful Captain told us early on that the swell in the Pacific can be difficult to deal with and to temper our expectations.  Sure enough, we anchored in Quepos and there was a two-meter swell which was causing the ship to roll quite a bit.  After multiple attempts they managed to at least board the Costa Rica Officials who were coming on board to clear the vessel.  Unfortunately, it was not safe to carry out tender operations and we ended up pulling up the anchor and making our way toward the next port.  The captain did try to get us into our next port early; however, the port was unable to accommodate an early arrival. 

I can’t say I’m surprised, but we were a little disappointed to miss out on Quepos.  To be honest, given the swell I wouldn’t have gone ashore anyway if they had managed to start the tender operation. Mike tried to get some photos from the ship, but we were rolling enough that they didn't really turn out. He took video as well, but it doesn't do the movement justice. I tried to walk laps and ended up back in bed because the motion was too much for me.

Puntarenas, Costa Rica

We were excited to reach a new country, but Puntarenas came with its own set of challenges.  As we get closer to North America, Villa Vie is working hard to prepare for US Public Health and US Coast Guard Inspections.  The Odyssey has never sailed to the United States, so must undergo all required testing and inspections prior to our arrival in the US.  The United States Coast Guard came to Puntarenas to conduct our ICOC (Initial Certificate of Compliance) pre-inspection.  This inspection deals with the safety of the ship itself and the equipment used to operate it.  The largest portion of this inspection is the testing of the transitional power.  All staff and residents are required to be off the ship for the duration of this testing.  We had to leave the ship no later than 9am and we would not be allowed back on board until the testing was complete; tentatively around 3pm. 

Originally, this testing was supposed to take place from 5pm to 10pm, so we booked an Airbnb for the night.  When they changed the time for the testing it was too late to cancel our accommodation, and we still had to be off the ship for several hours before we could check into the Airbnb.  We decided to book a sightseeing tour, so we could take our overnight bags and at least be in an airconditioned vehicle.  The tour took us to see capuchin monkeys, macaws, crocodiles, a fruit market, a souvenir market, and some great views from the mountain.  Overall, it was pretty good, and it kept us out of the heat.  Plus, I found some cats to pet near the lighthouse.

The tour wrapped up around 1pm and our Airbnb check-in got pushed back to 4pm, so we still spent quite a bit of time just wandering up and down the waterfront.  Finally, we popped into the grocery store for some snacks and then went for a really early dinner.  We had amazing tacos at a place just down the street from our apartment and then we checked-in shortly after 4pm.  The place had a pool, so we spent the afternoon floating around.

The next day we returned to the ship just before lunch and then took a long walk down the beach in the other direction.  In the last few days there have been large swells, and the waves have been coming up quite high.  We noticed that the beach was littered with driftwood and unfortunately, garbage.  We weren’t sure if that was normal or due to the recent waves, but the amount of driftwood would imply it’s the norm.  Puntarenas isn’t the prettiest place to visit, but the hills and mountains surrounding it were stunning.  It’s a very beautiful area, but very very hot.

Acajutla, El Salvador

We only had a one day stop in Acajutla which is too bad because El Salvador has a lot to explore including volcanoes and Mayan ruins.  We are always nervous to stray too far on one day stops because you never know what traffic will be like, what road conditions you can expect or even the conditions of the transportation.  Missing the ship would be very inconvenient, so we usually save longer excursions for overnight ports.

The port in Acajutla is a commercial port, but they arranged shuttles to take us into town.  They dropped us off at the Plaza Cultural and from there we walked over to the Botanico Cristobal Aleman Alas Park.  This botanic garden had several interesting trees, some fun murals, and a restaurant with a great view from the roof.  It may not have been a volcano, but Mike still managed to find the highest point in town.  After exploring the garden, we wandered down to walk along the Playa de Acajutla beach.  This beautiful black sand beach stretches for miles and when the tide is out it is very wide.  I also managed a couple of kitten scritches as we made our way through town.

Our next stop was the Wharf Lookout where a family of mapache (raccoons) has made their home.  There were several families of cats as well.  I wasn’t able to pet any of them, but I’m pretty sure I could have petted a raccoon if I wanted.  They were very friendly.  Overall, Acajutla was a lovely, sleepy town with by far the friendliest people we’ve come across.  Everyone we met offered a smile, wave, or ‘Buena’.  We got restaurant recommendations from a kind gentleman on the beach who grew up in the area and was visiting with his granddaughter for the first time.  The people were the best part of our visit, and we would definitely love to come back some day.

In the early evening, we got an announcement from the Hotel Manager that there would be a performance on the pier before we left.  A local band of high school students came and performed for us.  They were excellent and it was a fun send off.

Puerto Quetzal, Guatemala

Puerto Quetzal is another commercial port; however, they do have a dedicated spot for cruise ships to park.  You walk out into a greenspace with shops filled with local handmade treasures.  Other than the shops and restaurants there isn’t much else to see at the port, and you have to take a vehicle to leave.  The highest recommendation was to visit Antigua, the seat of the military governor of the Spanish colony of Guatemala for over 200 years.  This region encompassed most of present-day Central America.  Eventually, due to volcanic eruptions and a series of earthquakes the capital was moved to Guatemala City.  Antigua is nestled in the mountains between two volcanoes and offers stunning views, colourful buildings and beautiful architecture.

Many of the tours to Antiqua left in the early morning, so we didn’t really have a plan for the day.  We wandered into the shopping area, and we were approached by another group of residents who had secured a van to take them to Antigua, but they needed a few more people to get the cost down.  The price was right, so we hopped in with them and settled in for the long drive to the city.  Between traffic and construction, it ended up taking us about 2 hours and 20 minutes to reach the old town area of Antigua.  We had 2.5 hours to wander around before we had to be back to meet the van for our ride home.

Mike took us on a GPS my city tour and we learned a little about the history and some of the special buildings still standing in Antigua.  We saw no less than six different brides while we were wandering around, so it’s apparently a popular place to get married as well.  The tiny busses are vendors selling ice cream! There were lots of local vendors and we made the most of our time before heading back to the port.  Traffic was much better on the way back and the drive only ended up taking an hour and forty-five minutes.  We made it home in time for supper.  It was a fun day, but a lot of time just sitting in the car.

For our second day in Puerto Quetzal, we opted to stay at the port.  We explored the local vendors just outside the ship and watched the iguanas sunning themselves on the rocks.  There really isn’t much close by to explore and we weren’t up for another long car ride. 

Puerto Chiapas, Mexico

We’ve arrived in Mexico just in time for Cinco de Mayo!  Surprisingly our residents who live in Mexico said it isn’t as widely celebrated in Mexico as it is in the States and Canada.  It was a holiday; however, so we figured there might not be as many tours available.  There isn’t a whole lot to do right in Puerto Chiapas, but they offer a shuttle into Tapachula for $15/person round trip.  We briefly considered taking the half hour shuttle to town to explore, but in the end we passed.

The port itself is set up beautifully with a restaurant and pool for ship passengers to use.  There are also shops and walking trails around the property.  We were invited to join a small group for lunch to celebrate Cinco de Mayo at a nearby marina.  I wasn’t really feeling up for it, but Mike went and enjoyed a massive platter of shrimp. 

It was a fairly uneventful day, but we have several more stops in Mexico to explore.

Huatulco, Mexico

We had a sea day on the way to Huatulco where I tried to get caught up on the blog and reorganize our room a little bit.  Our shipped parked right in the bay and we woke up to beautiful cliffs and beaches all around us.  It’s a lovely spot on the coast, but very touristy.  We started our day with a short hike up to the Mirador Bahia Santa Cruz to look out over the bay.  The taxi drivers were unenthused with our choice to walk up the hill, but we like to get our steps in.  On our way back through town we stopped to check out some of the local birds.  Afterwards we headed back to the ship for lunch.  Sometimes we’ll try local cuisine, but it’s hard to justify eating out too often when we’re already paying for meals on the ship.

After lunch we changed into our swimsuits and headed down to the beach.  It was so close that we literally walked off the pier and onto the beach.  The water wasn’t quite clear enough for snorkeling, so we floated around for a while and just enjoyed the refreshing water.  I feel like snorkeling for the first time in Bonaire may have ruined me because I haven’t seen water that clear since.

We had a lovely relaxing day in Huatulco, and we would have loved to stay longer and explore more.  They are building up the Corredor Turistico La Crucecita which leads up into the old town, but we didn’t make it that far this time around.

Acapulco, Mexico

After another uneventful sea day we arrived in Acapulco, Mexico.  Acapulco has an interesting history; it was once a prime vacation destination but later became known for its high crime rate.  The city still appears on many do not travel lists but has seen vast improvements in safety since 2018.  We arrived on the same day as a scheduled visit by Mexico’s President Claudia Sheinbaum Pardo, so security was at an all time high.  There were armed military guards every where we went, but we’ll see if that was more to do with the presidential visit or everyday life.  The president did a drive by of our ship and waved from her car.

We chose to walk down the coast and loop over and up to the La Quebrada Acantilados where the famed cliff divers jump 40 meters into a small ocean cove multiple times a day. The walk over was beautiful, but really hot. We made our way down the waterfront until we hit the narrowest section of land, headed over to the other side and then backtracked up the hill to the cliffs.

The midday dive performance is at 1pm and we arrived at noon.  The show was terrifying and exciting.  The divers climb down from the viewing platform, swim across a narrow cove and climb up the wall on the other side.  They then jumped from various heights and climbed back out onto the viewing platform.  The ocean is not particularly calm in the cove and there is little room for error.  Mike was taking video on the GoPro, so I got to use the camera for a change.  I found it a little less frightening to watch through the camera lens and I think I got a few good pictures. You'll need to click on them to make them full screen to get the full effect. It's sometimes hard to pick out the divers with the rock face behind them.

After the cliff dive, we wandered back through town to the waterfront.  We wanted to go to the fort near the ship, but we assume due to the presidential visit the fort was closed, so we’ll try again tomorrow.  Instead, we headed back to the ship to cool off.  It was way too hot out, but an extra-large Gatorade on the way home helped significantly.

On our second day in Acapulco, we headed for the fort which houses the Acapulco Historical Museum of Fort San Diego.  This 17th century pentagonal fortress houses several exhibits that detail the facilities military history and the history of Acapulco.  The displays were exceptional and while the information provided was mostly in Spanish it was very comprehensive.  It gave me a chance to practice my Spanish, and I was happy with how much I understood without translation. 

Once we finished up at the fort, we walked along the waterfront down to the Galerias Acapulco mall.  There wasn’t much to see at the mall, but it was a nice walk.  The heat was starting to get to us again, so we headed back to the ship to cool off.  Our departure from Acapulco was slightly delayed when our bow thruster sucked up one of the mooring lines as we were leaving.  This required a dive team to come out and remove the line from the propeller and we ended up leaving after midnight.  Luckily, they noticed as soon as it happened, so there was no damage.

Manzanillo, Mexico

Due to our delayed departure from Acapulco, we were late arriving in Manzanillo which is Mexico’s busiest port.  When we arrived, we had to wait for the pilot to squeeze us in since we missed our original arrival time.  We were cleared to go ashore around 11am, but we decided to just wait until after lunch.  The cruise pier is near the historical center but the two large beaches that Manzanillo is known for are on the opposite side of the commercial port which would require a 2 hour walk or a half hour drive.  We chose to walk along the waterfront near the historical center as far as we could before we ran into the channel that provides access to the port.  It was a nice walk; they have created park spaces and erected sculptures along the way.  Our meandering ended at a quiet beach with a Manzanillo sign that was missing the O.  We walked back and explored the Jardin Alvaro Obregon square with its massive sailfish statue. 

Later in the evening the Ministry of Tourism put together a cultural event for us.  They had local music and performances in the main plaza just off the cruise pier.  We didn’t stay for the whole thing, but we really enjoyed the portion we saw.  On the way back to the ship we snuggled with a cat sleeping in the square.

Day two in Manzanillo our all-aboard time is 3pm, so we decided not to catch a cab over to the larger beaches.  Instead, we walked over to the Iguanario Archundia animal sanctuary.  They have raccoons, wild boars, coati, parrots and a ridiculous number of iguanas living in the sanctuary.  We also saw turtles in the canal along the way.  Supposedly there are river crocodiles living in the canal as well, but we didn’t see any.  After the sanctuary we just wandered around the historical center for a bit and visited some shops.  We rounded out the day with ice cream and Gatorade before heading back to the ship.

Puerto Vallarta, Mexico

We have several residents on board that live or lived in Puerto Vallarta, so we got a ton of recommendations on what we should do.  Unfortunately, we didn’t have enough time to do everything, but top of Mike’s list was of course a lookout.  Puerto Vallarta is walkable right from the port if you’re determined, so we left a little early and walked about 40 minutes to the Malecon.  About halfway down the Malecon we headed up through a residential area towards the mountain.  There is a set of very steep stairs leading up to a platform with a fantastic view over the city.  The Mirador el Cerro del a Cruz provided epic views and an incredible calf workout.  We also got to pet stair cats on the way up and the way back down.  It was a pretty good workout, but worth it.

Afterwards, we wandered along the Malecon for a while then headed back towards the port and stopped at a mall to cool off.  Friends of ours were nearby and we decided to meet up at Costco to stock up on toiletries etc.  We spent a few hours exploring Costco and then headed back to the ship.

Our second day was a quest for more supplies.  There is a Walmart Supercenter right across the main road from the park, but they didn’t have as much selection as we’d hoped, so we wandered down to another mall as well.  It wasn’t much of a sightseeing day, but life onboard means housekeeping tasks eventually need to be done.  Puerto Vallarta provided a prime opportunity to pick up the basics. 

We really enjoyed Puerto Vallarta and would love to come back and spend a week exploring the area and relaxing on the beach.  It was definitely more touristy than we usually care for, but it also felt very safe.

Mazatlán, Mexico

We are headed back to Canada!  The ship has a few more stops in Mexico and then it will sail to Hawaii, spend a week there, and then sail back to west coast of the US.  It will take 8 days to sail to Hawaii and 6 to sail back to the US and as much as we love Hawaii, we decided to take this opportunity to fly home to visit family and friends.  It’s a short flight from Mexico and we will pick the ship back up when it arrives in Vancouver.  We will be home for approximately 6 weeks, and we can’t wait to catch up with everyone.  Our next post will probably be pretty short, but we’ll fill you in on our adventures at home if we have any.  Once we are back on the ship, we will be Alaska bound.

Unfortunately, this means that we won't really get to explore Mazatlán on our first day. We arrived around 9am and we had to have a face to face with immigration to get our passports stamped in preparation for disembarking. After clearing immigration I did a load of laundry and started packing and prepping our cabin for our departure tomorrow. Mike happily stayed out of the way and did laps on the ship and drank rum on the pool deck.

Our second day in Mazatlán is special because we are getting on an airplane for the first time in almost a year.  We'll be heading to the airport around noon and landing in Calgary late evening. See you soon!